I just spent a decent amount of time hanging out in the shop with my bike trying to figure some of the last stuff out. Part of my revived effort to start doing stuff again and spend time in other rooms than this one.
See, I want to put my bike back together again, basically as soon as is physically possible. But there is also stuff that I want to do thats is going to take some time – primarily to the tank:
- Add tank hand shift (right front)
– Add one of the copper Ural badges (left front)
– Fuel site guage (left middle)
– Second fuel tap (bottom right)
– English tank cap conversion (forward top)
To accomplish this the tank needs 7 threaded bungs welded into it in various positions that have to be pretty accurately placed so that the stuff they’re for actually fits. It also needs the section with the gas hole & cap cut out with a new section welded in that will accept the ring for the british cap (so much better function/design). I’d also like to paint the tank nicely, I mean it’ll still be pretty much flat green & some bare metal (under clear coat), but I want it to be a Good paint job that lasts – like the job Brent did on the sidecar tub. Whats more is that I’m starting to think that I want to make my own tank shifter.
First off, this is what I’m going for:
You can see from the jump that its stone simple. Here’s the thing, since the lever this connects to doesn’t automatically return back to center (like a toe shift) these knotches
are really important. As in they have to be the right distance from each other or else the bike’s not going to go into gear properly. Now over the many decades of people producing the gearbox that this is designed to work with
there are slight variations in just how she shifts and I don’t know how old my gearbox is, I don’t want to order a part from half way around the world and then mount it to my tank (no way to properly set it up if its free floating, so no way to know until after) and discover that those knotches don’t mesh with my gearbox.
Also rather happily I found this picture
Which shows everything I’d need to make from a good angle. But that’s going to take time, I mean there are a dozen slow moving steps before I can even really begin to make it – I figure I make the levers/pivot/backplate first and mount all that to the tank, then with adjustable rods I get it all tied together and then I can make the knotch plate. But thats going to take months, and I want my bike now.
So I was downstairs trying to figure that out. I mean the solution in and of itself is pretty simple, just use a different gas tank in the meantime. But the catch there was to make sure the seat I want to use with the final tank would work with the tank off my first Ural.
It almost does, I mean hell if you painted the tank below the seam black it would actually probably look pretty decent.
But the main trouble is that the seat, and thus my weight, would be resting on the seam of the tank – thats what holds up the front of the seat in this, and while I could make some brackets, to do it right would require solid mods to the seat. That would be fine except that those mods would kill its chances of working afterwards with the tank I really want to use. There is no good way to make this work without killing later use of either the seat or the tank and I want both.
So instead, for the time being I am going to revert to how the Ural looked in 2012 with this tank and the tractor seat combination:
Which will work fine for around town and short trips, which is fine since for at least the next year or two the bike will only make 32hp which isn’t really touring power.
What I have to remember when I’m putting the bike together is that I want to install the back half of the bench seat before I install the tail light & license plate holder because of centering as well as positioning. It’ll look great and work basically anywhere on the fender – and with the tractor seat that’d be fine, but once I convert to the bench I don’t want to have to move the tail light. Its the little things.